When you talk about and think about purchasing a truck tent, one personal experience comes to mind involving a Sportz truck tent. It was on an overnight fishing trip to a small lake about 80 miles from my home. I own a travel trailer but I also needed to pull my boat trailer on small gravel roads and small State highways without a shoulder. I decided to use my truck tent because pulling tandem trailers was not at all realistic.
In the wee hours of the morning, a violent storm containing a tornado (tornado did not touch down at my camping site) and very heavy rain/wind came directly over my camp site. I was asleep inside the truck tent when the storm hit. The wind whipped at the tent and pickup violently and the rain was so heavy it almost sank my exposed boat.
That truck tent weathered that storm just fine and I stayed high and dry inside it. I was completely sold on Sportz truck tents from that moment on.
I attribute some of the tent's stability on it's very strong bungee type tie downs positioned at the base of each pole end anchored to the truck by strong hooks. Other bungee type tie downs attach forward and rearward further stabilizing the tent The stretched bungee tie downs tend to keep tension on the tie down points constantly even in heavy wind. Since the tent is not staked out in soft ground but attached to the truck with those stretched bungee tie downs, it is so much more stabile than a ground tent.
Since I was pickup bed height off the ground, even the heavy rain could not flood the floor of the tent nor did the tent leak anywhere.
These Sportz truck tents and Camp Right truck tents, designed & purchased to fit most any pickup truck, are available at http://www.hastprotrucks.com
Monday, September 8, 2008
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Introducing www.huntfishcampworld.com
We want to make you all aware of a new Hastpro site that should be on the net sometime in September. The URL of this site is set in stone and will be http://www.huntfishcampworld.com
The wide array of products will follow all the topics indicated by the URL plus other outdoors products. Over time, we plan to expand this site to include many categories and products, some of which are not generally available at most brick and mortar stores.
The wide array of products will follow all the topics indicated by the URL plus other outdoors products. Over time, we plan to expand this site to include many categories and products, some of which are not generally available at most brick and mortar stores.
New line of products on www.hastprotrucks.com
We just published the new line of products along with our ebook on http://www.hastprotrucks.com
This new line includes Truck, Car & SUV Tents from two different manufacturers, versatile top & rear carriers by CampRight/PackRight, top carrier accessories and vehicle cargo boxes & organizers. We added a new page to our site to where anyone can check out fitment of a truck, car or SUV tent before they make the initial purchase.
A new DIY repair/maintenance ebook will soon be available on this site. The title of this ebook will be : Basic Vehicle & Equipment Operating Systems & Components.
We intend to expand the product line to include vehicle accessories of various types, camping accessories or gear to compliment the vehicle tents and maybe some hunting and fishing gear to also compliment the vehicle tents.
This new line includes Truck, Car & SUV Tents from two different manufacturers, versatile top & rear carriers by CampRight/PackRight, top carrier accessories and vehicle cargo boxes & organizers. We added a new page to our site to where anyone can check out fitment of a truck, car or SUV tent before they make the initial purchase.
A new DIY repair/maintenance ebook will soon be available on this site. The title of this ebook will be : Basic Vehicle & Equipment Operating Systems & Components.
We intend to expand the product line to include vehicle accessories of various types, camping accessories or gear to compliment the vehicle tents and maybe some hunting and fishing gear to also compliment the vehicle tents.
Friday, February 15, 2008
Getting trained as an auto mechanic
One of my articles appearing at: http://www.helium.com/tm/818342/perfect-example-someone-wants
My life is a perfect example for someone who wants to go into the automotive mechanical field but does not really have the money to almost completely quit work and attend a formal school.
You see, my dad was a small engine and automotive mechanic who taught me a lot. When I graduated high school, my dream was to become an aviation maintenance technician but it required a minimum of two years at a full time school.
My dad and mother or I couldn't afford the added expense with almost no income from me, so that dream went by the way side. I desperately needed a source of decent income so as an alternative I couldn't wait to become a truck driver. A couple of short lived jobs later, that was exactly where I found myself. That job also carried along the responsibility of some maintenance work on the trucks I drove (a tradition of sorts back then). So did the next few driving jobs. Those experiences as a truck driver proved invaluable later in life.
I finally decided truck driving was not for me so I tried my hand at several other occupations and finally wound up working at a commercial tree nursery where I again found myself taking on mechanical responsibilities, even taking some formal training at a nearby technical school. Seems I couldn't stay clear of mechanics whether it was on mine, a relative or friends vehicle, or on the job working on a truck, tractor, ditching machine or you name it.
My brother tried his hand at a shop of his own and I decided to help for a while. This really began my career as a full fledged mechanic. About three years later I started to work for a large truck dealership in a neighboring city. 25 years later I was still in the big truck field, but along the way I became a highly trained ASE certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Bus Technician. I didn't turn down any opportunity at further training and certification, Let me tell you, that led me all over a great part of the US going to first this school and that school. A blank wall in my house will barely hold the certificates I collected.
I guess the message here is to get on board any job that will subject you to the mechanical field if the funds are not available to attend a technical school. Then get as much training as you can anywhere you can, and the auto field will just happen for you if you have the mindset for it along with the drive to take that next step.
Automotive mechanics of caliber don't just happen along, making them in big demand and the demand is getting bigger all the time. Especially where the electronic world is concerned. Computers and electronics are an increasingly large part of all automotive applications today and will be even more a part of it tomorrow. Some training in those areas is certainly advisable.
A description I keep hearing from people in the know (and I agree), is that a person who is both mechanical minded AND computer/electronics savvy will get to the point of earnings akin to airline pilots and beyond. A huge demand for these people already exists.
One final thought, start right now putting together your tools and toolboxes because they cost thousands and most shops require you provide your own tools to a certain degree. A weekly allowance for tool purchases is the only way to go for a person serious about becoming any kind of automotive mechanic.
Some places where you can get a job and both receive the background and training necessary to become a full blown auto technician is listed below:
WalMart, Sears & other auto service centers
Tire shops (they also do light to medium auto mechanics)
Taxi & limousine services
Bus companies
Public School shops
City, county & State shops
Trucking & delivery companies (including such as UPS, Fed Ex, etc.)
Auto service centers in general
Exhaust repair shops
Auto glass companies
Radiator repair shops
Driveline repair shops
Alternator & starter re-builders
Transmission & rear axle re-builders
Engine re-builders
And the list go on.
You see, the possibilities are there. All you need to do is get in there and dig while being open to any and all chances to advance.
My life is a perfect example for someone who wants to go into the automotive mechanical field but does not really have the money to almost completely quit work and attend a formal school.
You see, my dad was a small engine and automotive mechanic who taught me a lot. When I graduated high school, my dream was to become an aviation maintenance technician but it required a minimum of two years at a full time school.
My dad and mother or I couldn't afford the added expense with almost no income from me, so that dream went by the way side. I desperately needed a source of decent income so as an alternative I couldn't wait to become a truck driver. A couple of short lived jobs later, that was exactly where I found myself. That job also carried along the responsibility of some maintenance work on the trucks I drove (a tradition of sorts back then). So did the next few driving jobs. Those experiences as a truck driver proved invaluable later in life.
I finally decided truck driving was not for me so I tried my hand at several other occupations and finally wound up working at a commercial tree nursery where I again found myself taking on mechanical responsibilities, even taking some formal training at a nearby technical school. Seems I couldn't stay clear of mechanics whether it was on mine, a relative or friends vehicle, or on the job working on a truck, tractor, ditching machine or you name it.
My brother tried his hand at a shop of his own and I decided to help for a while. This really began my career as a full fledged mechanic. About three years later I started to work for a large truck dealership in a neighboring city. 25 years later I was still in the big truck field, but along the way I became a highly trained ASE certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Bus Technician. I didn't turn down any opportunity at further training and certification, Let me tell you, that led me all over a great part of the US going to first this school and that school. A blank wall in my house will barely hold the certificates I collected.
I guess the message here is to get on board any job that will subject you to the mechanical field if the funds are not available to attend a technical school. Then get as much training as you can anywhere you can, and the auto field will just happen for you if you have the mindset for it along with the drive to take that next step.
Automotive mechanics of caliber don't just happen along, making them in big demand and the demand is getting bigger all the time. Especially where the electronic world is concerned. Computers and electronics are an increasingly large part of all automotive applications today and will be even more a part of it tomorrow. Some training in those areas is certainly advisable.
A description I keep hearing from people in the know (and I agree), is that a person who is both mechanical minded AND computer/electronics savvy will get to the point of earnings akin to airline pilots and beyond. A huge demand for these people already exists.
One final thought, start right now putting together your tools and toolboxes because they cost thousands and most shops require you provide your own tools to a certain degree. A weekly allowance for tool purchases is the only way to go for a person serious about becoming any kind of automotive mechanic.
Some places where you can get a job and both receive the background and training necessary to become a full blown auto technician is listed below:
WalMart, Sears & other auto service centers
Tire shops (they also do light to medium auto mechanics)
Taxi & limousine services
Bus companies
Public School shops
City, county & State shops
Trucking & delivery companies (including such as UPS, Fed Ex, etc.)
Auto service centers in general
Exhaust repair shops
Auto glass companies
Radiator repair shops
Driveline repair shops
Alternator & starter re-builders
Transmission & rear axle re-builders
Engine re-builders
And the list go on.
You see, the possibilities are there. All you need to do is get in there and dig while being open to any and all chances to advance.
Thursday, January 24, 2008
Properly Jump Starting A Vehicle
This article was written by Jerry Hastings & appears on www.helium.com, www.diggs.com, www.del.icio.us.com & www.hastprotrucks.com/forum
There are several things to consider and be aware of when jump starting a car for both safety's sake as well as the well being of the car that provides the jump start. Proper jumping techniques should be followed to reduce the strain on the starter of the car being jumped too.
Here are two very important things one should be aware of beforehand. The possibility exists that the car with the dead battery has an internal short in it's battery. The possibility of a spark while hooking the cables to a discharged battery can cause an explosion.
In the first mentioned scenario, a shorted battery can fry the "jumper's" alternator in seconds as well as pose the problem of a potential explosion. If the dead battery obviously wasn't caused by an electrical device or lights being left on without the engine running, jump starting may not be the best solution. If the dead battery does not even click the starter relay, further diagnosis will be in order BEFORE hooking up the jumper cables!
In the first and second scenarios, a discharged battery emits very explosive gases that could be ignited by the spark from the jumper cables while connecting them. There are alternate means to connect the jumper cables that greatly lessens the chance of an explosion.
First, hook up the cables to the car providing the jump start (red to the positive terminal and black or stripped to the negative terminal) while at the same time keeping the opposite ends of the jumper cables separated from each other. Next, hook up the red cable to the positive terminal on the car's battery that needs the jump start, BUT, DO NOT hook up the negative battery jumper cable to the dead battery. Instead, hook it to a good ground (void of paint or rust) as far away from the dead battery as possible (ground - meaning an engine bolt head or metal bracket etc.).
Allow several minutes to pass with the running car charging up the dead battery some BEFORE trying to start the dead car. Bringing up the jumping car's RPM a little will speed up this charging time. After 5-10 minutes of recharge time, try momentarily to start the dead car. If it starts right up, great. If not, stop trying to start it and continue to allow more recharge time.
Starters will burn up from low voltage quickly! Absolutely do not crank the starter over for more than 30 seconds at a time (allow 3-5 minutes cooling time between times too). Also, on board engine controlling computers will not function correctly until the voltage during the starting process is adequate enough, therefore preventing the spark plugs from firing.
For safety's sake, unhook the jumper cables by removing the ground connection on the jumped car first, then the negative cable on the jumper's battery, that eliminates the temporary circuit formed by the jumper cables (and the possibility of shorting one jumper cable end against the other before final disconnection).
Despite popular belief, batteries will not recharge in 30 minutes or so. They require several hours to fully recharge at the amperage most car alternators are capable of. Also with today's cars that have constant drains on the battery by clocks etc., the battery really should be hooked to a charger at least overnight at first opportunity, unless the car is driven for quite a distance before killing the engine.
Suspected shorted batteries should be checked out using the proper equipment. Some battery chargers are so equipped, others are not. Make sure you heed any tool's instructions in regards to hooking and unhooking a discharged battery as well as instructions on how to properly check a battery's condition.
Treat an automotive battery with the respect you would an open container of gasoline when connecting or disconnecting one, or hooking up jumper cables. They can be just as deadly
There are several things to consider and be aware of when jump starting a car for both safety's sake as well as the well being of the car that provides the jump start. Proper jumping techniques should be followed to reduce the strain on the starter of the car being jumped too.
Here are two very important things one should be aware of beforehand. The possibility exists that the car with the dead battery has an internal short in it's battery. The possibility of a spark while hooking the cables to a discharged battery can cause an explosion.
In the first mentioned scenario, a shorted battery can fry the "jumper's" alternator in seconds as well as pose the problem of a potential explosion. If the dead battery obviously wasn't caused by an electrical device or lights being left on without the engine running, jump starting may not be the best solution. If the dead battery does not even click the starter relay, further diagnosis will be in order BEFORE hooking up the jumper cables!
In the first and second scenarios, a discharged battery emits very explosive gases that could be ignited by the spark from the jumper cables while connecting them. There are alternate means to connect the jumper cables that greatly lessens the chance of an explosion.
First, hook up the cables to the car providing the jump start (red to the positive terminal and black or stripped to the negative terminal) while at the same time keeping the opposite ends of the jumper cables separated from each other. Next, hook up the red cable to the positive terminal on the car's battery that needs the jump start, BUT, DO NOT hook up the negative battery jumper cable to the dead battery. Instead, hook it to a good ground (void of paint or rust) as far away from the dead battery as possible (ground - meaning an engine bolt head or metal bracket etc.).
Allow several minutes to pass with the running car charging up the dead battery some BEFORE trying to start the dead car. Bringing up the jumping car's RPM a little will speed up this charging time. After 5-10 minutes of recharge time, try momentarily to start the dead car. If it starts right up, great. If not, stop trying to start it and continue to allow more recharge time.
Starters will burn up from low voltage quickly! Absolutely do not crank the starter over for more than 30 seconds at a time (allow 3-5 minutes cooling time between times too). Also, on board engine controlling computers will not function correctly until the voltage during the starting process is adequate enough, therefore preventing the spark plugs from firing.
For safety's sake, unhook the jumper cables by removing the ground connection on the jumped car first, then the negative cable on the jumper's battery, that eliminates the temporary circuit formed by the jumper cables (and the possibility of shorting one jumper cable end against the other before final disconnection).
Despite popular belief, batteries will not recharge in 30 minutes or so. They require several hours to fully recharge at the amperage most car alternators are capable of. Also with today's cars that have constant drains on the battery by clocks etc., the battery really should be hooked to a charger at least overnight at first opportunity, unless the car is driven for quite a distance before killing the engine.
Suspected shorted batteries should be checked out using the proper equipment. Some battery chargers are so equipped, others are not. Make sure you heed any tool's instructions in regards to hooking and unhooking a discharged battery as well as instructions on how to properly check a battery's condition.
Treat an automotive battery with the respect you would an open container of gasoline when connecting or disconnecting one, or hooking up jumper cables. They can be just as deadly
Monday, January 21, 2008
Basic anatomy of an electrical relay-automotive
An post written by Jerry Hastings which also appears on www.hastprotrucks.com/forum
People are often confused by a relay and most importantly it's function and intended purpose. A relay is simply a switch like a toggle switch, but instead of manually toggling the switch, a relay uses electrical connections other than the "load" circuit to do the switching.
The 5 prong relay is a simple example. On one prong is the load's supply wire from either a positive electrical source or it could simply be to a good ground (providing a ground or negative connection instead of a positive connection). The corresponding prong is connected to the load (ie electrical motor, solenoid or other loads).
An entirely different circuit is then used to accomplish the switching action. This circuit is electrically separated from the load circuit. It consists of a good ground from the appropriate prong on the relay to the actual grounding location. The opposite prong on the relay is then connected to an electrical supply that is either a key operated positive supply or may be a supply generated by the action of another switching action of a related accessory. For simplicity we will call that positive and negative connection the "trigger" supply.
This "trigger" circuit can be negatively controlled if desired, but most of the time it is positively controlled. For simplicity we will use the positively controlled relay for further explanation.
When electrical current flows to the "trigger" prong on the relay (which necessitates utilization of the ground or negative connection), it causes a switching action to occur inside the relay which turns on the "load" circuit. This "trigger" circuit is a low amperage circuit meaning it is more friendly to actual connecting or activating items like the key switch or switch associated with another accessory than the "load" circuit. The "load" circuit is a relatively high amperage circuit.
The "trigger" circuit can also use smaller wires since it is a low amperage circuit unlike the "load" circuit which must use larger wires and larger amperage requirements. Smaller wires and low amperage are imperative in computer connections, wiper switches, light switches, etc.
If you find two fuses in the fuse panel that have the same label, the one with the smallest amperage rated fuse is on the "trigger" circuit and the high amperage fuse is on the "load" circuit.
Of course, larger vehicles like class 8 trucks often have their left and right headlamp circuits isolated from each other. That is primarily for safety reasons since one circuit can fail but the other stays functional. In that case, the fuses (or breakers) and relays are labeled "left headlamp" and "right headlamp".
More complicated relays are often found in todays cars and trucks which are capable of performing multiple tasks and/or controlling more than one load. These relays still function by the same principles as the simple 5 prong relay but can be configured to work on both the positive "triggering" and negative "triggering" circuits in the same relay.
People are often confused by a relay and most importantly it's function and intended purpose. A relay is simply a switch like a toggle switch, but instead of manually toggling the switch, a relay uses electrical connections other than the "load" circuit to do the switching.
The 5 prong relay is a simple example. On one prong is the load's supply wire from either a positive electrical source or it could simply be to a good ground (providing a ground or negative connection instead of a positive connection). The corresponding prong is connected to the load (ie electrical motor, solenoid or other loads).
An entirely different circuit is then used to accomplish the switching action. This circuit is electrically separated from the load circuit. It consists of a good ground from the appropriate prong on the relay to the actual grounding location. The opposite prong on the relay is then connected to an electrical supply that is either a key operated positive supply or may be a supply generated by the action of another switching action of a related accessory. For simplicity we will call that positive and negative connection the "trigger" supply.
This "trigger" circuit can be negatively controlled if desired, but most of the time it is positively controlled. For simplicity we will use the positively controlled relay for further explanation.
When electrical current flows to the "trigger" prong on the relay (which necessitates utilization of the ground or negative connection), it causes a switching action to occur inside the relay which turns on the "load" circuit. This "trigger" circuit is a low amperage circuit meaning it is more friendly to actual connecting or activating items like the key switch or switch associated with another accessory than the "load" circuit. The "load" circuit is a relatively high amperage circuit.
The "trigger" circuit can also use smaller wires since it is a low amperage circuit unlike the "load" circuit which must use larger wires and larger amperage requirements. Smaller wires and low amperage are imperative in computer connections, wiper switches, light switches, etc.
If you find two fuses in the fuse panel that have the same label, the one with the smallest amperage rated fuse is on the "trigger" circuit and the high amperage fuse is on the "load" circuit.
Of course, larger vehicles like class 8 trucks often have their left and right headlamp circuits isolated from each other. That is primarily for safety reasons since one circuit can fail but the other stays functional. In that case, the fuses (or breakers) and relays are labeled "left headlamp" and "right headlamp".
More complicated relays are often found in todays cars and trucks which are capable of performing multiple tasks and/or controlling more than one load. These relays still function by the same principles as the simple 5 prong relay but can be configured to work on both the positive "triggering" and negative "triggering" circuits in the same relay.
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